Reunion and Mauritius are like sibling islands that no one knows about–at least in the American world. And before you come at me, when I say American I mean those from the United States.

I mean, you can’t even see the islands easily on the map. And the two islands couldn’t have more different characters. In one, you can swim on beautiful golden beaches, and on the other, you can hike in the mountains and drive on windy roads. Yet, only one feels like you’re on Mars. And that’s Reunion.

Technically these islands are siblings. They both form part of the Mascarene Islands in the Indian Ocean, you can speak French on both, both have multicultural aspects to them, and they were both previously uninhabited. But that’s where a lot of the similarities end.

Wherever you go in Reunion, you are bound to see a different “side” or “face” of the island. And it takes an in-person experience to truly appreciate its beauty. You can Google the destinations and look at the photos, but they only insult the natural beauty of this island.

For one, Reunion is one of the few islands I’ve been to where you can swim in the water (well, you can go for a dip otherwise the sharks will come, seriously) and then drive up winding roads into mountain valleys with cold temperatures.

I had planned to make this journey for over a year. However, what made it more sensitive was that right before my anticipated arrival, the island had just witnessed the brutality of Tropical Cyclone Garance, which laid siege to this small island. The cyclone took its toll on the island, hitting particular cities in the North and North-East–leaving the central mountain areas of the island relatively unscathed. And you can see some of this destruction, especially driving around Saint-Denis, which is situated in the North.

This French island is a whopping 11-hour flight from the French “metropole” but only 150 KM / 93 miles from Mauritius. For me, it felt like I was back in La Bresse (in the Vosges mountain range), except I was on an island in the middle of the Indian Ocean. If I had to give similarities to an American audience, it would be a mix of Kauaʻi (Hawaii) with the Appalachian Mountains of Western North Carolina, and a tinge of Arizona’s Grand Canyon. Not bad for an island, right?

However, there was one piece of advice that I found true for the island–”the beaches are [insert expletive].” And I have to agree. After stopping to get some coffee at Vanilla café in Saint Pierre on the way to the hotel in La Plaine-des-Palmistes, I figured I’d take a trip down to the nearby Saint-Pierre beach. The beach was so bad I almost turned around and took a flight back to Mauritius.

But I’m glad I didn’t. Here’s why.

Day 1 | Exploring Saint-Denis and Settling In at Le Tuit Tuit

Pick up your rental car at the Roland Garros Airport and then make your way to Saint-Denis or your hotel. I recommend making a quick pitstop in Saint-Denis to get your bearings.

First Stop: Office of Tourism

It’s here where I got some good recommendations for Reunion food and a cafe.

Getting Reunion Food

Luckily, the recommended food spot was right around the corner at Les Délices des Îles. Yes, that’s right–no Google reviews. Yet when you go there, you’re bound to find people there and food disappearing before your eyes.

I’ll spare the lengthy description. The food is delicious!

From there, make your way to Mafate Café (walking distance) to grab a cup of coffee–which the island is also known for.

From here–it’s time to make your way to your hotel.

For me, that meant driving from the airport to Hotel Le Tuit Tuit in La Plaine-des-Palmistes–which is located in the center of the island.

Normally, this drive would take 50 mins to an hour driving on the eastern side of the island. But, no, I have to be different and make things difficult. Plus, with only 3 days, I had to squeeze a lot of agenda items into this itinerary. That meant driving on the western side of the island and then into La Plaine-des-Palmistes in a 2 hour 7 min drive. And I’m glad I did. Here’s why:

A €1.6 Billion / $1.7 Billion Dollar View (Aka the Billion Dollar Bridge)

I love big projects. Like large infrastructure projects such as the sky-high bridge in Millau, France, where you drive in the clouds. Reunion is no different.

In fact, France built a crazy long bridge on the periphery of the island: The Route du Littoral.

This €1.6 billion (≈ $1.70 billion USD) bridge runs for almost 8 miles over the Indian ocean. I mean, it’s just staggering as an engineering feat. It just makes you wonder–what went into its construction? What is its longevity? According to the construction site, it says (I’m translating) “a 100-year lifespan.” What happens when an earthquake strikes?

Apparently, the road couldn’t be rebuilt on the island, since the mountainous terrain was prone to falling rocks. With a bridge like this, that means of course I had to drive on it.

Note: After talking to locals, I wished I had stopped at La Plage de l’Hermitage–supposedly one of the more beautiful beaches on the island (this was a recommendation from the wonderful staff at Vanilla café–see below).

I continued to find a suitable beach to walk around, but first, I was still tired from the flight in from Mauritius. That meant I needed more coffee.

As a result, I ended up at Vanilla Café in Saint-Pierre before making my way down to Saint-Pierre beach.

If you came from Mauritius or experienced the French Riviera–then you will be sorely disappointed by this beach. But, it’s “still a beach.” Yet, you’d still have to be cautious about venturing too far given the large incidence of shark attacks on the island.

Now it’s really time to head to the hotel. I’ll also let you in on a secret. It’s childish.

The other reason I wanted to take this way to the hotel was because the road passed through a town called “Le Tampon.” I know. I know. Juvenile. In reality, the town’s name translates to “The Stamp.”

However, laughter soon went away when I realized the route I had to take. If you haven’t taken a look at the roads in Reunion, they are full of zig-zags.

In fact, there’s a road with over 400 turns–the Route de Cilaos. While this route didn’t have 400 turns–it had more than I was ready for while shifting in big, clunky Hoka’s–instead of the slim, better-fitting Birkenstock sandals I should have grabbed from my suitcase.

Yet–the view was simply stunning. You are basically driving up the mountain and down into a valley.

What’s more shocking is that I would have never explored this area if it weren’t for the hotel.

Checking in at Le Tuit Tuit

After 2 hours of driving, I finally arrived at Le Tuit Tuit, nestled right in the mountain valley.

From here, I needed to destress, and I was able to do that with a welcome drink and sauna and by getting ready for dinner. Read more on Le Tuit Tuit here.

Dinner at Le Tuit Tuit

Can’t say enough great things about the food at Le Tuit Tuit. It’s like having a specialized kitchen right at your doorstep.

Gear Used

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Note: I found out later that La Plaine-des-Palmistes is actually home to the guava tree native to Reunion. It’s actually a “strawberry guava” tree that’s invasive but now popular on the island–where there’s an annual Guava Festival held in June (see last year’s event here).

I decided to explore an area in the town called Domaine des Tourelles–a handicraft museum. There’s actually a collection of artisans ranging from food vendors to artists. I was there for the local brewery–La Brasserie de l’Îlet–where I met the very vivacious owner who is his own one-stop-shop.

Tip: When packing beer, wine, or spirits for plane rides, use a travel protector. This one has been pretty useful, and I’ve used it across long-distance flights from Mulhouse, Switzerland, Brisbane, Australia, and Reunion/Mauritius.

In fact, he’d just finished a new batch that’s still in my fridge waiting to finish fermenting. The previous Blonde was delicious and tasted even better knowing it made its way through over 22+ hrs of flight time. Those beer bottles never knew what was coming to them.

There’s also a local distillery (see here). However, they were closed when I went to visit this area. I did stop by the main gift store in the Domaine des Tourelles to grab some coffee mugs, locally grown honey, and of course, the local vanilla.

Hike to the Biberon Waterfall

The best part of Le Tuit Tuit is that the hotel is nestled right next to the Biberon Waterfall. In fact, it’s just a short 3-minute drive up the road. Make sure to park at the designated parking area–otherwise, you will miss the trail.

Unlike Washington State Parks–this trail isn’t that well maintained. I mean, they did have a recent cyclone. But still, the trail requires some bending down to avoid overhanging branches and brush.

Yet, the view once you get there is simply magical. Expect a round-trip hike of 55 minutes (without calculating time for photos). Roughly 27 minutes going and the same for a return trip–which includes pauses for photos and if you’re not wearing appropriate shoes.

Drive to the Canyon (Commerson Crater)!

From La Plaine des Palmistes, I drove to the volcano and picked the Commerson Crater for its sweeping views. A roughly 46-minute drive with super windy roads. This time, I’m glad I swapped out my Hokas for Birkenstocks and put the Renault Twingo through the works.

Even though it was cloudy–the crater was simply astonishing in terms of its depth and beauty. Looking over the edge felt like you would simply fall to its depths.

Tip: If you want to know weather conditions before going to these scenic or hiking destinations, check the webcams here. But please be aware that the weather changes very rapidly.

And then when you walked along the Crater’s rim, it felt like you were just walking to the heavens. This is what I was expecting at the Kerid (Kerið) Crater in Iceland’s Golden Circle but was sorely disappointed. The Commerson Crater definitely filled that void and gave me strong flashbacks of the beautiful Sete Cidades craters in São Miguel in Portugal‘s Azores Islands.

From here–where next? To MARS!

I’m serious. The view is Mars-like and otherworldly. That’s the best way I can describe La Plaine des Sables.

The landscape is begging for someone with crazy photography skills to create a beautiful backdrop. I mean, it’s beyond what my iPhone or Pentax 17 film camera could capture.

Do pay attention to the road, since it abruptly stops. I mean, you will be driving on potholes and gravel. I really thought the small tires on my Renault Twingo would pop.

I’d recommend walking on the near-Martian soil or driving up until “Foc Foc” and the free, unpaved parking area for hiking. But, if you are really adventurous and have time, then I would drive to Parking du Pas de Bellecombe and then hike 1hr 30mins (one-way) to the Piton de la Fournaise volcano. I didn’t get a chance to drive here (driving to Foc Foc was already a challenge in the Twingo), but I’d imagine the views mirror those of the Keanakako’i Overlook on Big Island in Hawaii (except that has a shorter walk to and from the paved parking area).

Make your way to Le Tampon for Dinner

On the way to dinner, I stopped by the Volcano House to grab some items. But it might have other items of interest. I would just get trinkets related to the volcano and make your way to Le Tampon, but the workers there gave some excellent dinner recommendations.

The downside? The restaurants didn’t open for a few hours–until after 7PM.

That meant it was time to explore other food areas and what’s called “Snack” stalls–small stands that serve food. That meant some bakery items at Passion et Excellence and then some creole snacks at Le Cabanon.

But still with some time to kill, I decided to check out the Reunion snack selection at the French supermarket E. Leclerc in Le Tampon right across from the dinner spot. I definitely recommend the banana chips and red piment sauce.

Finally, make your way to Diables Ô Thym restaurant for some good tasting food and Reunion ice cream. It wasn’t on the menu, but you can ask. You can even ask for guava ice cream.

From here–head back to Le Tuit Tuit and drive in the night through the crazy windy roads back to La Plaine des Palmistes. You might even get lucky and the bar will still be open to grab some actual Reunion drinks.

Then it’s time to pack for tomorrow’s departure back to Mauritius.

Day 3 | Explore Saint-Denis & Flight back to Mauritius

I wanted to explore more of Saint-Denis while also giving adequate time to get out of the mountainous area and be closer to the airport.

I found exploring the area and walking paths near the Boulodrome du Barachois beautiful and, in fact, saw people playing a French boule game called Pétanque that a Frenchman taught me in Lovina Beach in Northern Bali.

Knowing that I was running low on time, I went to another E. Leclerc supermarket to get some last-minute grocery items, but they didn’t have the items I was looking for. However, I do recommend buying some creole food at the shop that’s right at the entrance.

From there, it’s time to head to the airport. But make sure you fill up the car with gas. I stopped at a TotalEnergies gas station. However, I’m biased since I own Total stock and simply wanted to fill up there. But the station was easily located along the way to the airport and even has a food stall plus a fitness gym nearby.

Return Rental Car and Check-In

Return the car in proper order! And then head to the flight back to Mauritius. Immigration and Security take roughly 1 minute.

Note: There is a creole restaurant across the airport’s main entrance called Kabar Kreol Snacking–but the quality wasn’t the same as it was in Le Tampon or where you’d find elsewhere on the island. But if you want a quick fix, then it’s at least an option.

You can also pick up some Creole food near the departure gate, aka Bouchon de Poulet (chicken)–which everyone seemed to enjoy. I simply did the same, and they were better than the Kabar place outside.

And from here, you can say goodbye to Reunion for now! À bientôt!

Reunion Island (France)

Tips, Tricks, and Logistics

• Vaccinations & Health Precautions: Bring mosquito spray–these mosquitos are on steroids! They are not as frequent as Bali, but they are very aggressive, more so than Mauritius. Keep an eye on potential outbreaks (like Chikungunya) and ensure you’re up to date on travel vaccinations (see: CDC and Canadian Government). Tip: Mosquitoes can be aggressive, especially in certain areas like Le Tampon, which have heavy pockets of infection–so bring effective mosquito repellent (Some Soffel would work). You might require a negative PCR test if you want to enter Mauritius.
• Car Rental: Rent a car as it is the most efficient way to explore the island. Pickup is easy at Roland Garros Airport. Be aware: Roads can be winding and challenging, especially the famous Route de Cilaos, with over 400 turns. Ensure your rental car is well-suited for mountainous terrain.
• Natural Hazards: Reunion experiences occasional natural disasters like cyclones. Check weather forecasts ahead of time, especially if traveling during the cyclone season (November-April).
• Sharks and Swimming: Many of Reunion’s beaches are not safe for swimming due to shark attacks. Stick to designated safe zones or avoid swimming in certain areas. Also, if you plan to visit beaches like Saint-Pierre, be cautious of strong currents and local shark warnings.
• Weather and Clothing: Pack for varied weather. Reunion’s tropical climate means you could go from hot, sunny beaches to cooler mountainous areas in just an hour’s drive. Lightweight clothing for warm areas, and layers for the cooler mountain regions, are recommended.
• Language: While French is the primary language, many locals speak Creole and some English, especially in tourist spots.
• Currency: Reunion uses the Euro (€). Be sure to have a mix of cash and cards, though credit cards are widely accepted in most places.

Trip Soundtrack

Because every adventure needs a soundtrack, each of my trips comes with a theme song. And for this trip's anthem? Well, it's...

DANYÈL WARO - Madlinn ('FD' acoustic session)