Bali, Blog, Indonesia, Travel | 6 May 2025 | MIN READ
West Bali Road Trip: The Route Less Traveled
47 days ago
The waves crash on the black sand beach, a sign that you’ve escaped the tourist crowds of Ubud and Canggu and found the authentic heart of Bali. This is West Bali.
Jatiluwih Rice Terraces step aside—there’s a new rice field in town. And it’s… well, it’s not really on the map.
Forget the guidebooks and destinations every influencer are pushing. Someone once asked in the Facebook group “Bali Best Things” – “Could someone suggest different rice fields?”
Do you know what the responses were? Most were for of course Jatiu….wait…wait! Jatiluwih Terrace and Tegalalang / Ceking Rice Terrace were tied. Only one person offered a real answer: “Let’s ride for the best rice field.”
And that’s exactly what you should do. Anthony Bourdain’s “No Reservation” TV show resonated with many travelers worldwide because of its authenticity and rawness. It should be noted that if people hyped up his appearance at a restaurant or location, he would be a no-show.
Rice Field Recommendations Tally:
- Jatiluwih: 7 mentions
- Tegalalang / Ceking Rice Terrace: 7 mentions
- Soka Rice Fields in West Bali: 1 mention
- Sidemen Rice Terrace: 2 mentions
- Sekumpul: 1 mention
- Mayong Rice Terrace: 1 mention
- Belimbing / Pupuan Rice Terrace: 1 mention
- Rice field Near Nungnung Waterfall (also included Tegalalang): 1 mention
The same approach should be taken with Jatiluwih. Sure, you can visit this attraction, but with everyone treating it like a Hollywood superstar, you’re just checking off a box. And there’s nothing wrong with that. But to check it off and go, even doing those touristy swings in Ubud, means you miss the beauty and heart of Bali. (Side rant: Even as I add my GetYourGuide affiliate link to that ridiculous swing, my stomach turns in disgust.)
Let’s take a look at how many mentions each rice terrace received. Look at which one got only a single mention. Ok–there are few. But guess which one we’re going to? Yes! Socka Rice Field in West Bali. Well, near there.
I believe the beauty of Indonesia lies in the middle of its plains. Just like in the heart of the United States you can find plains and corn fields where you encounter the nicest people and the most breathtaking scenery—what makes Bali any different?
The rawness of taking a Gojek on unmarked roads, with car keys rattling against the side of the steering column, lets you know you’re on a road less traveled. You don’t need anyone to tell you this.
Do you want to run into an “instafluencer” with a drone flying above the terraces, asking you to “hold on” as they seek another shot? I bet if you explored beyond the typical tourist spots in Bali, you’d find more authentic options than what everyone else is visiting.
Planning Your West Bali Adventure
Transportation Options and Costs
- Balian Beach (Canggu → Balian): IDR 255,000 ($16 USD) via Gojek (one way, 61 km / 38 miles)
- Private Driver (Full Day): ~IDR 700,000–850,000 ($44–54 USD), cheaper if booked locally (~IDR 500,000 or $32 USD)
- Budget option with planning: IDR 500,000 (approximately $30 USD)
Make sure to hire a private driver for this route. More specifically, I recommend a private driver if you’re doing a full day and plan to return to Canggu. If you’re coming here for a brief period, then grab a Gojek one way.
You might think you want to tough it out on this ride. You’re probably reading this thinking, “Mate, I reckon I’m gonna do whatever I damn well please. I’ll jump on a moped for 2 hours if I want.” But, say that to the blind spots on the narrow turns–or the tiny bridges where you end up playing a game of chicken with a local Balinese driver. The typical response should be, “Fahkin hell, that woulda hurt.” And that’s probably why I saw few mopeds with foreigners, except at night for whatever reason.
The drive is not ideal—many roads are barely paved, overly pockmarked, you have the chance of rain, some streets aren’t labeled, and some greenery covers portions of the road. But, maybe a game of chicken is your thing. However, it’s best not to try it on the route’s narrow one-line bridges.
So despite the fact that you’ll pass some of the most beautiful rice terraces, hiring a driver is worth the money—just don’t make the mistake I did and hire a scam driver. A driver will make the lengthy trip much less stressful than trying to navigate it on your own.
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The Scenic Drive West
The drive is nothing short of breathtaking. But first, you have to make it happen.
Even if you try to get a Gojek, they likely won’t take the route I took to Balian. Instead, they might take a route passing by the Wisnu Murti Statue (which is nice in its own right) and then continue through Selemadeg. There’s nothing wrong with that—I’m sure that route is still very scenic and likely better road infrastructure.
Off-Map Rice Terraces
Instead, take the roads closest to the ocean. Make it a priority to drive through Krambitan and Antap, passing by Persawahan. In fact, there’s a road that’s not even listed on Google Maps (or where you can drop the Google Orange guy)—Jl. Serma Watra—where you’ll find the most stunning rice terrace views.
Pit Stop: WaroengTT
I recommend spending time around Kerambitan (different from Krambitan) and visiting Pasut Beach and WaroengTT restaurant for some quick eats.
Look out for The Narrow Bridge, It’s Your Marker
Before you reach WaroengTT, you’ll have to cross the tiniest of bridges. I mean, it’s barely a bridge—essentially concrete over water with no traffic signals. This is when you know it starts to get real. It’s a one-lane bridge where you have to wait for other vehicles or mopeds to pass.
After your meal, walk it off by stopping at a Gamelan music instrument store—Gamelan Bali Dadong Dauh.
From there, continue up towards Antap—specifically to stop by the Antap Suspension Bridge.
Then make your way to Cave with Bat. (Note: You can also see plenty of bats at Ubud’s Monkey Sanctuary. If you go to the temple and look up to the ceiling, you’ll see hundreds if not thousands of bats.)
Finally, continue to Balian Beach.
You’ll notice this drive is scenic for several reasons. One is that you’ll see some of the most beautiful terraces on this side of the island, and when you look out, you’ll also see the blue ocean glistening on the horizon.
Balian Beach: A Surfer’s Paradise
When you arrive at Balian Beach in Lalanglinggah, you might be the only one there. Or you might see a lone red moped lingering around. Either way, you’ve made it. From here, you can either relax on the beach or grab a coffee from Pondok Pitaya—a surfing and yoga hotel where an espresso costs IDR 30,000 ($1.79 USD)—a great price for a resort.
If you want to spend a night or two, this would be a good spot given that accommodations hover around $42 USD per night.
The area around Balian is very tranquil. In fact, I think it’s even quieter than Lovina. It gets busier when surfers are around but won’t receive the same attention as Lovina.
This beach isn’t swarmed with tourists like others. Instead, you’ll see more people out on the water surfing or paragliding among the rather large waves.
Swimming here is questionable. Even the local sign states, “If you want to swim, the river is a safer option.” But I’m not entirely convinced that’s true. After all, the river mouth feeds into the ocean—aren’t there sharks there? I digress.
At least the sign clearly states, “This beach is not suitable for swimming” and that “strong rip tides [are] possible.” I’ll pass on swimming—and I actually already did.
Lunch at Deki’s Warung
Hopefully, you’ve built up an appetite. If so, stop by Deki’s Warung for lunch. The sign says “Good food, drink, and great view.” The one thing it does have, is a great view.
The food is an afterthought at this restaurant. The flavors aren’t well-developed, and the whole ambiance, including the meal presentation, seems tired.
The coffee was tasteless and gritty. Instead of trying a fancy Balinese meal, just order Nasi Goreng. Always. When in doubt, Nasi Goreng—and you’ll be fine.
But you’re here for the view. You have an amazing opportunity to watch surfers in the nearby break.
Clearly this place is favored for its views by tourists from around the world. You’ll notice the structural poles supporting the restaurant’s roof are covered in stickers from its many visitors both near and far. Mostly surfers, predominantly from Australia (and a few Kiwis).
Nevertheless, during the off-shoulder season (March), this is a quiet paradise. Not because you’d want to frolic on the semi-clean black sand beach, but because you can just be at peace—no mopeds zipping around, no chatter, no rowdy tourists like you’d find at the beaches lining Canggu.
Instead, you just hear the waves crash hard on the beach and watch the distant specks on the water, which you can identify as surfers once you zoom in with your camera and see them trying to catch a wave.
Note: There is a warning about shark sightings for surfers, but that doesn’t seem to deter anyone. You can also watch a video to learn more about Bali’s “Sharky” Spot. That’s a no thanks from me. I’m not interested in running into any sharks. If I wanted to play with sharks, I’d swim around Reunion Island in shiny swim trunks made out of bait–an island with a shark infestation.
Bonus Stop: Tanah Lot – Is It Worth It?
On the way back to Canggu, you can stop by Tanah Lot. I would plan roughly two hours, not including time you want to spend eating at one of the many restaurants in the area.
- Entrance fee: IDR 150,000 (approximately $9 USD)
- Best photo spot: Pura Batu Bolong Temple — directly across from Tanah Lot
- Tips (see here for Bali packing guide):
- Bring reef shoes; the rocks are slippery.
- Don’t expect to enter the main temple—foreigners aren’t allowed.
- Dress modestly with a sarong (required).
(Add: Best times to visit to avoid crowds and get the best photos)
The downside to this place, as highlighted in my overview of Bali, is that it’s overly touristy—how do you have Ralph Lauren and other American stores at a sacred site?
In fact, this area is probably more commercialized than the Ulu Danu Beratan Temple complex, which already has a sort of Disney-esque presence.
Nevertheless, I would add Tanah Lot to your list to visit at least once. It’s a pretty expansive area with many photo opportunities.
I suggest taking photos of Pura Batu Bolong Temple—opposite of Tanah Lot. You can take photos near this temple, but like Tanah Lot, you can’t enter inside. Please be aware these are sacred sites and dress appropriately. That means wearing a sarong—more people seemed to adhere to a modest dress code here than at Ulu Danu Beratan temple.
Eventually, you’ll make your way across the beach on a very rocky, uneven path with no stabilizing features and reach Tanah Lot. In fact, the path is only visible during low tide. I’d recommend reef shoes rather than the Birkenstocks I wore, given the high chance of slipping. Come during high tide and the area is flooded with water and inaccessible. During low tide, when we visited, the rocks were still relatively slippery.
As you approach the base of Tanah Lot, you’ll notice a line forming. If you turn your head to the left—opposite the temple—you’ll see another line.
There are two experiences people line up for. The line facing the temple is for Holy Spring Water at Beji Pura Luhur at Tanah Lot. A stream of water flows outward, and you’re encouraged to wash your hands and face. Afterward, you’ll receive a traditional rice blessing on your forehead, surrounded by temple staff.
On the other side of the temple, there’s a cave-like entrance where, for a small fee or donation, you can interact with a snake handled by one of the temple attendants. Called the Holy Snake, it’s said to guard the temple.
Granted, we didn’t want to pay or wait in line, we ushered ourselves out the exit and toward the nearby shops. There’s a decent clothing store to buy t-shirts. But I’d just browse since the prices are very Western and MORE EXPENSIVE than what you’d pay in Canggu. This is where I wished I had just gone back to sunnyday clothing store in Canggu.
Note: Most people take photos by the “gates,” but there’s usually a line.
Like I said, this place is touristy—even by Western standards.
Return Journey Highlights
Once you’ve made your way back (assuming you did a day trip), cap it off with a reward for having trekked so far, now that you’re jolted back into civilization.
I suggest ending the night with dinner at Varuna Warung in Canggu and then making your way to LowCal Cheatery health food bar for a fresh smoothie. This felt especially refreshing after a hot, long day on bumpy roads.
Of course, the night can’t end without stopping by 7hungry. Get locally made Bali ice cream and a Bintang, and watch the passersby.
Driving to West Bali
Tips, Tricks, and Logistics
- Escape the Tourist Trail: West Bali offers an authentic experience away from crowded destinations like Ubud and Canggu, with lesser-known rice terraces near Krambitan and Antap providing scenic views without the Instagram crowds.
- Transportation Strategy: While the journey is possible via Gojek (IDR 255,000/$16 USD one-way from Canggu), a private driver is recommended (IDR 700,000-850,000/$44-54 USD full day) due to narrow roads, blind turns, and occasional challenging driving conditions.
- Balian Beach Highlights: This surfer’s paradise features black sand beaches, impressive waves, and accommodation options like Pondok Pitaya for around $42 USD per night – but swimming is not recommended due to strong rip currents.
- Key Stops Along the Route: The journey includes noteworthy stops at off-map rice terraces, Pasut Beach, WaroengTT restaurant, a unique narrow bridge, Antap Suspension Bridge, and the optional Tanah Lot Temple on the return journey.
- • Is It Worth It?: The trip is one of Bali’s most scenic routes, but ideally deserves an overnight stay in Balian rather than rushing it as a day trip, especially for those who enjoy surfing or seek a peaceful “find yourself” environment away from crowds.
Conclusion: Is West Bali Worth It?
Absolutely. This was one of the more scenic routes I’ve experienced in Bali.
Going to Lovina Beach or Ubud can be scenic in their own right, but there’s something special about these small roads and towns along the ocean. These beachside towns have their own signature, perhaps it’s because you know that you’re just a stone’s throw away from the ocean.
No matter where you are during your journey, as long as you have an access point, you can drive east (toward the ocean) and you’re bound to find hidden beaches lining the West Coast of Bali.
My suggestion? Give this trip the time it deserves. That means dedicating a full day to explore the region. Factor in the possibility that you might spend two hours each way in traffic. Also, be aware that evening traffic can be heavy, given the craziness that is Bali traffic.
So, drum roll… do I think West Bali is worth the journey? Yes and no. If I were to do it again, I’d spend a night or two in Balian and swap Gojek for a private driver.
West Bali is a “find yourself” kind of environment–where a scorn character gets knocked down and rebuilds in solitude. Balian, in particular, can feel like starting over in Age of Empires—no town center, no population. Basically rebuilding civilization from scratch. In contrast, Lovina is peaceful, maintains basic amenities and still has a population.
However, I’ve marked up my Google Maps with location pins throughout West Bali. I think I’ll return for a few more photos. And if you love surfing—definitely add this spot to your Bali travel bucket list.