France, Paris | 30 June 2024 | 20 MIN READ
3-Day Paris Layover Adventure with Air France: A Guide to Parisian Food, French Rap, and Iconic Film Locations
321 days ago
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So, you might be thinking, wait, a 3-day layover in Paris? How do you just spend 3 days in Paris?
I purposely called Air France to extend the layover going to Delhi. Obviously, there was a fixed wedding date, so I made my departure date flight earlier to build in layover days. Since there was already a layover in the schedule, I asked if they could extend the trip for a few additional days, which turned into a 3-day layover.
As a result, this 3-day layover itinerary was engineered on the fly with some last-minute preparation to help my family hit as many sights as possible in such a short time.
We revisited favorite scenic and food spots while discovering new ones, like the iconic Basilica of Sacré Coeur de Montmartre that’s now famous from the final fight scene in John Wick‘s latest movie.
Important Accessibility Note: Our group of six included my elderly grandmother who used a wheelchair. This significantly shaped our itinerary, hotel choices, and transportation methods.
Paris: My Second Home
Paris is my love, second home, and so much more. This iconic city has shaped my life in countless ways, from its beautiful architecture to the smells of baguettes in the morning and rotisserie chickens from Ed l’Epicier (now closed) on the way to school, to the scent of cigarette smoke wafting through the air, the sound of Peugeot 406 diesel engine cars, and brrr brrr brrr whizzing sound of mopeds. There is no other city like Paris.
This city has left an indelible mark on me, from performing MC Solaar’s “Les Temps Changent” in school to listening to Passi’s “Mon Papa a Moi est un Gangster” Bisso Na Bisso’s “Tata Nzambé,” to 113 – “Tonton Du Bled” and “Les Princes de La Ville” (which features the discount store TATI where my mom would shop) on Skyrock (that’s now shuttered).
This is the blend of culture and influence that I experienced growing up, and hopefully, you will experience that same warmth in Paris.
I hope I can impart some of that experience through some of the tips in this blog.
It’s hard to get a crash course on the rich tapestry of culture that permeates the city of light’s cobblestoned streets.
However, I wanted to get just a taste. It has been a few years since I visited Paris – and more than 20 years since I visited with my family, especially with my grandmother.
Pre-Trip Planning
When to Visit
The best time to visit Paris depends on your preferences, budget, and mobility needs. If you’re watching costs, I recommend the shoulder seasons (spring and fall), which offer decent weather and fewer tourists to navigate around.
Summer months (June-August) are peak tourist season, with higher prices (round trip from Seattle around $750-$2K per person) and more crowds. Our trip was in June, and previously, we’ve visited in summer or April. Ultimately, your travel plans and potential visits to other European cities using the Eurail pass will factor into this decision.
For wheelchair users, summer offers one major advantage – dry pavements and pleasant temperatures make mobility significantly easier than wet or icy conditions.
Like most Americans with limited vacation time, summer is often the only option. For our trip, my brother’s wedding was the primary driver, so I had to coordinate around complex schedules – shift work, my cousin’s availability, and most importantly, my grandma’s schedule and mobility needs.
If you’re on a tighter budget, winter months (December-February) offer lower prices (round trip from Seattle $496 or $294 from Boston), but the colder temperatures can create additional challenges for wheelchair users.
Our June trip came down to practical factors – when could we all travel together? We already had the layover opportunity, and June’s pleasant weather is ideal for wheelchair navigation, despite the larger crowds at major attractions.
Transportation with Wheelchair Accessibility in Mind
Paris has an excellent public transportation system with metros, buses, and RER trains. For most travelers, I recommend a Paris Visite travel pass for unlimited travel within specific zones. If you’re a frequent metro user, the Navigo Easy pass might be more cost-effective than buying individual tickets.
Important Wheelchair Alert: The RATP (Paris metro) is not fully equipped for wheelchair users, making some stations completely inaccessible. Even as Paris prepared for the 2024 Olympics, media outlets highlighted accessibility challenges faced by France’s own Paralympic athletes trying to navigate the system. This reality shaped our entire approach to the trip.
Because of these limitations, we chose hotels near major attractions and relied heavily on Uber’s accessible vehicle options. This strategy meant we frequented more tourist-oriented places than I might typically recommend, but for wheelchair travel, convenience trumps discovery. When traveling with mobility needs, sometimes the “greatest hits” approach makes more sense than my usual off-the-beaten-path adventures.
This Paris visit was part of our complex multi-leg journey spanning several countries. Between our group of six, we took Air France, ANA, and JAL to cover Paris (layover), Delhi, and Tokyo (another layover at Haneda) before returning to Chicago and Seattle. Notably, Tokyo also presented significant mobility challenges, with even fewer wheelchair-accessible services than Paris.
Accommodation Strategy
With limited wheelchair accessibility in the Paris metro system, our hotel location became the cornerstone of our entire strategy. We chose to stay near the Arc de Triomphe, transforming this iconic monument into our accessibility hub—a central landmark with boulevards radiating in multiple directions.
Sonder’s ATALA became our Parisian home, just a 10-minute wheel to the Arc de Triomphe. I’ve developed a fondness for Sonder properties after experiencing their spaces in cities from Paris to San Antonio. They offer that perfect blend of apartment spaciousness with hotel conveniences that makes extended stays feel like home.
Accessibility Note: If considering Hôtel Princesse Caroline (our secondary accommodation), be aware their elevator measures approximately 72cm×80cm—just barely accommodating a standard wheelchair.
The Language of Access
While most Parisians speak English, making an effort with basic French transforms your experience from tourist to welcomed visitor. For wheelchair travelers, these specific phrases proved invaluable:
- “Est-ce accessible aux fauteuils roulants?” (Is it wheelchair accessible?)
- “Y a-t-il une rampe d’accès?” (Is there an access ramp?)
- “Y a-t-il un ascenseur?” (Is there an elevator?)
Personal Reflection: As an American who attended French schools, I’ve witnessed both sides of the language divide. The difference between a warm welcome and cool distance often comes down to those first few words of attempted French. Make the effort—it matters.
Pre-Flight: Maximizing Points for Our Paris Layover
For this trip, I wanted to be smart about using my American Express Membership Rewards (MR) points for our Seattle to Delhi journey. I turned to AwardHacker.com to explore my options.
Quick tip: AwardHacker is just a search tool – you can’t book directly through it, and it’s not always up to date. I use it purely for initial research, then verify the actual costs and points with airlines directly.
Additional Fees:
- Base fee: $63.80 per person × 5X Amex Platinum Points = 320 points (640 total)
- SEA → Paris leg: $193.40 × 5X Amex Platinum Points = 965 points
- CDG → Delhi leg: $193.40 × 5X Amex Platinum Points = 965 points
After comparing options, Air France emerged as the clear winner for using AmEx MR points to Delhi, with a nice bonus – a long layover in Paris! This was perfect since I was specifically trying to build in a Paris stop. I jumped on this deal immediately.
Here’s what I learned: You’ll need to set up a FlyingBlue account first, then transfer your MR points from Amex to Air France. This process isn’t instant – allow at least 2 days, sometimes more. Prices and award availability fluctuate constantly, so be ready to move when you see a good deal.
You will have to create a FlyingBlue account and then transfer the MR points from Amex to Air France, which can take 2 days or more. Be prepared for this, especially as prices and award redemption fluctuate.
Side rant: Air France’s website login process is horrible! Their PIN code system is a nightmare – sometimes SMS verification works, other times you’re waiting 5+ minutes for an email. It was frustrating enough for me not to use their website again.
I could have gone with Delta, but they were pricier and likely wouldn’t have routed through Paris. Plus, I have fond memories of flying Air France as a kid and wanted to revisit that experience.
There’s something special about flying a country’s national airline – you get to experience the culture through their food, service style, and entertainment options.
During this flight, I watched “Tout le Monde Aime Jeanne” (Everybody Loves Jeanne) – this creative comedy follows a woman who travels to Lisbon after her mother’s death to sell her apartment. Classic storyline, but well done!
One thing to remember: even when your ticket shows “$0” due to points redemption, you’ll still pay fees. Think of it as a “reward tax.” In our case, Air France charged about $514.40 for two people to Delhi ($257.20 per person). Always factor these fees into your budget – nothing worse than thinking you’ve scored a completely free flight only to get hit with unexpected charges right before your next paycheck lands.
Day 1: The Heart of Paris
Morning: First Impressions
8:40 AM: Arrival at Charles de Gaulle
Wheelchair Accessibility: CDG offers dedicated accessibility services but requires advance notification through your airline. We arranged wheelchair assistance through Air France during booking.
- 9:30 AM: Accessible Transportation – Take an Uber to your hotel. We weren’t aware of the “Uber Access” wheelchair-friendly option at the time and instead went to the second floor of the terminal for regular Uber. Fortunately, we found a vehicle with enough space for the wheelchair.
- Accessibility Tip: Request “Uber Access” in the app for vehicles with wheelchair ramps
- Cost Comparison: €102.60 for accessible vehicle vs. €47.59 for standard Uber
- Most hotels will store your luggage if you arrive before check-in time
First Taste of Paris: Chocolatine Pastry at Cyril Lignac
After dropping our luggage at the hotel, we made a beeline for Cyril Lignac’s patisserie near the Arc de Triomphe. The first bite of perfectly laminated pastry reminded me instantly why Paris remains unmatched in the art of boulangerie.
Afternoon: Champs-Élysées Elegance
The wide, accessible sidewalks of the Champs-Élysées make it one of Paris’s most welcoming avenues for wheelchair users. We strolled this iconic boulevard slowly, taking in both the high-fashion boutiques and the street performers.
Memory Lane: Walking this avenue transported me back to childhood shopping trips with my mother, when we’d walk from La Défense all the way to Sephora—a journey I complained about then but would give anything to revisit now.
Consider a stop at Sephora Paris for some beauty shopping. This is one of my favorite spots, where I remember the cologne being so expensive that the cheapest bottle was a bottle of Comme des Garçons.
Growing up, we would seldom take the Metro and walk with my Mom from La Défense along the Champs-Élysées to Sephora and back. (Closest Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt)
- Grocery Store PItstop: Stop by Franprix at 33 Rue Marbeuf, 75008 Paris, France to grab water and other items for the trip.
- Lunch: Chez Janou, a charming bistro known for its Provençal cuisine and crazy Pastis menu. (Closest Metro: Chemin Vert).
I would recommend you get a reservation if you plan on visiting this restaurant. However, you can still sit for dinner if you don’t have a reservation. We simply sat at the bar until dinner service.
You can sit and order a few items while you wait or just add to your tab. I requested the bartender to just randomly sample me Pastis, which is an anise aperitif that’s popular in France.
It has a rather strong taste and probably fits in the category of Jagermeister or Absinthe. It’s an acquired taste for sure. We did this until seating opened up and a reservation did not show up and we were able to get a seat. Don’t worry, you will see others do the same. If you arrive here and people have not arrived then they can seat you.
The food was delicious and they have a rather good menu of options for food from pot au feu, and French onion soup. If you’re claustrophobic do note that these tables are pretty close to each other.
We were actually paired to this older French couple who were pretty chatty and I asked them for some recommendations, especially since I was visiting with family. They suggested Chez Suzette and La Maison de la Truffe Madeleine (which we didn’t have time to add to our super packed schedule).
- Enjoy crepes with Grand Marnier at Chez Suzette Creperie Paris.
- Other Options:
- Dinner: Monte-Carlo, 9 Av. de Wagram, 75017 Paris, France. This is if you pick Hôtel Princesse Caroline, where some of us stayed.
- Visit Alter Smoke for CBD products, 2 Rue Washington, 75008 Paris, France, next to Sonder.
Day 2: Cultural Attractions
Morning: Garden Serenity
Begin your day with the remarkable pastries at 13 Au Jardin near Luxembourg Gardens. Their croissants achieve that perfect balance of buttery richness and delicate flakiness that seems to exist only in Paris.
The Luxembourg Gardens offer one of the city’s most accessible and elegant green spaces. We lingered by the central fountain, watching Parisian children push wooden sailboats across the water—a tradition unchanged for generations.
Afternoon: Artistic Heritage
While the Louvre demands at least half a day to appreciate, we opted for a different approach—admiring the iconic pyramid from outside before continuing along the Seine. This river is Paris’s true main artery, connecting monuments across centuries.
Evening: Literary Pilgrimage
Shakespeare and Company bookstore stands as a monument to literary Paris. The legendary English-language bookshop has hosted generations of writers.
While this is a bookstore in France, a lot of the books are in English. So make sure to grab one as a souvenir. I randomly snatched up a book that I would later find out was on horseback riding called Kick the Latch by Kathryn Scanlan. A good read.
Travel Tip: Take a picture by the fountain in front of the bookstore.
- Then walk to Rue de la Hachette, which is known for its many Greek fast-food restaurants, usually serving gyros, fries, and a Coke. Pick a restaurant to get some gyros (they generally all offer the same type and quality of food). Afterwards, hop over to Amorino, an ice cream shop at 16 Rue de la Huchette, 75005 Paris, France.
- Walk back to Quai Saint-Michel and head to Pont Saint-Michel (Pont Saint-Michel, 75006 Paris, France). Continue walking by foot or taxi (if needed for wheelchair accessibility) to Place du Trocadéro, Pl. du Trocadéro et du 11 Novembre, 75016 Paris, France. This is where John Wick and the Marquis negotiate the rules of their duel in a meeting moderated by the High Table’s Harbinger in the John Wick: Chapter 4. (Note: depending on your layover or when you arrive, consider the aesthetics of when, how, and why you want to take a picture of Trocadero square and the Eiffel Tower, since tourists can crowd your photo).
Wheelchair Accessibility: Trocadéro offers Paris’s most wheelchair-friendly view of the Eiffel Tower, with completely accessible viewing platforms and smooth pathways.
Day 3: Montmartre and More
Morning
Montmartre offers Paris’s most dramatic viewpoint, made famous in countless films (Lelouch’s iconic short film, C’était un Rendez-vous)—most recently as the setting for the final showdown in John Wick: Chapter 4. The 300 steps to Sacré-Cœur present a challenge (the funicular railway provides an accessible alternative), but the panorama rewards every effort.
I recommend arriving in the morning, since it’s the best time to avoid crowds and get a great view of the city. (Closest Metro: Abbesses or Anvers). The steps are a definite pain to walk up., but there’s a funicular that can ease that burden, if necessary.
Unexpected Encounter: While visiting Sacré-Cœur when the doors opened, I sat down, and took a moment to venjoy the architecture. However, a nun approached me for conversation. After we walked for a good many minutes, about life, and basically told me just to focus on what I can control in front of me and not focus on what I can’t control. She said she didn’t know if I was religious or not but here gifted me prayer beads and to wished my brother a good wedding.
- From the funicular walk, 7 minutes to the Place Émile Goudeau drinking fountain near Picasso’s first studio, then a 4 minute walk to the Wall of Love, and finally an 8-minute walk to the Moulin Rouge windmill. (Closest Metro: Blanche). If you’re hungry or want coffee, there’s a Five Guys and Starbucks nearby, but we preferred a quaint cafe on the way back to the hotel.
- Enjoy a coffee break at Cafe Pera on 41 Rue Ballu, on your way back to the city center. (Closest Metro: Place de Clichy). Try their croissants and stop for a quick coffee. (Note: this is not a full fledged lunch spot)
Afternoon: Modern Paris & Old Stomping Grounds
- Explore the Arche de La Défense and visit FNAC in the Westfield CNIT. or the stores in Westfield Les 4 Temps (Closest Metro: La Défense).
Nostalgic Note: This is my old stomping ground that is now a major financial district with many shops. The biggest shops worth checking out would be FNAC which is the equivalent to Best Buy and Target combined. This is a good area if you want to pick up gifts or household items. I would come here to buy French notebooks and other items needed for school.
- Missing contacts? If you need contacts on the run, check out Art Optic Courbevoie, 36 Rue de Bezons, 92400 Courbevoie, France. Price: $80.90. I often end up needing last minute contacts (which happened in Spain, too), and the optometrist here was very helpful, hooking me up with a 90-day supply of a French brand of dailies—Ophtalmic HR 1 Day—that worked really well. I wish I could find this brand in the states but I haven’t so far.
Afternoon:
- Visit Porte De Clignancourt and the Paris Flea Market, a 7 minute walk from the metro. Also, check out Marché Malik nearby (Closest Metro: Porte de Clignancourt). This is a big shopping destination that features major discount stores. I do think the area is still worth exploring if it fits in your schedule. If not, skip it.
- Explore Centre Pompidou and the adjacent, yet eccentrically colorful Stravinksy Fountain. (Closest Metro: Rambuteau). If pressed for time, just take a picture in front of either structure.
Evening: Final Impressions
- Relax at Le Galliera for late coffee at 15 Avenue Pierre 1er de Serbie, Paris, 75016.
- Visit Café George V, 120 Avenue des Champs-Élysées, Paris, 75008.
For our final evening, we gathered at Café George V on the Champs-Élysées. Of the many times I’ve walked this boulveard, I’ve never gone to this cafe.
However, here we were. Actually, my whole family was pretty much here—generations of us. While admittedly touristy, this was a good place to just sit down, eat, have coffee and French beer, and people-watch.
While admittedly touristy, it offered something more valuable than authentic cuisine—a comfortable space where three generations of our family could relax together, people-watch, and critique our meal!
Grandmother’s Verdict: My grandma gave that shake of her head I grew used to–a stare and then wide eyes and then a fast head moving side to side like “nah.” I’m like, “What grandma?” And she’s like, “Is this what they call a steak?” Basically because it didn’t taste like a steak to her. I explained that while the food might be mediocre, the location gave us easy access and prime views of Parisian life passing by. She nodded—understanding the compromises that make family travel work. She nodded. I miss her nods.
- If you’re just craving a quick French beer, stop by Les Deux Magots, 6 Pl. Saint-Germain des Prés, 75006 Paris, France.
Evening: A Parisian Haircut
Sometimes the most memorable travel experiences come from everyday moments. At West Side Barber, what started as a simple haircut turned into a cultural exchange of music. I introduced the barber to Tee Grizzley and Chief Keef; he returned the favor with French hip-hop tracks I’d never heard before.
Travel Truth: Finding a place for a proper fade is always one of my first missions in any city. This place delivered both style and unexpected connection. But do know that if you have the U.S. Andis T-Outliner and Andis Master clipper, the U.S. plug won’t work without a step-down converter. Therefore it’s better to buy an Andis clipper with an EU plug, which is this type here.
Head to Airport to Get Ready for the Flight to Delhi
During our trip, we used Uber for transportation between our accommodations and the airport. And now it’s time to take Uber to Airport Charles to Gaulle for the Air France Flight to Delhi–watching La Haine.
Here’s some fare breakdowns:
-
- Going from CDG to Hôtel Princesse Caroline: This vehicle had a special area for the wheelchair to fit and had seating where people faced each other in a weird British LEVC TX eCity
- Total: €102.60
- Distance: 32.70 kilometers
- Time: 47 min
- Going from Sonder’s ATALA to CDG Airport
- Total: €47.59
- Distance: 31.08 kilometers
- Time: 32 min
- Going from CDG to Hôtel Princesse Caroline: This vehicle had a special area for the wheelchair to fit and had seating where people faced each other in a weird British LEVC TX eCity
Accessibility Tips for Paris
Wheelchair Accessibility Summary for Major Attractions
Attraction | Accessibility Rating | Key Features | Limitations |
---|---|---|---|
Arc de Triomphe | ★★★☆☆ (3/5) | Elevator access, underground passage | Upper viewing deck inaccessible |
Champs-Élysées | ★★★★☆ (4/5) | Wide sidewalks, curb cuts | Crowded during peak hours |
Louvre Museum | ★★★★☆ (4/5) | Multiple accessible entrances, elevators | Vast size requires planning |
Luxembourg Gardens | ★★★★☆ (4/5) | Paved main paths, accessible restrooms | Some gravel paths challenging |
Notre Dame (exterior) | ★★★☆☆ (3/5) | Accessible viewing areas | Limited access during reconstruction |
Sacré-Cœur | ★★☆☆☆ (2/5) | Funicular access, north entrance | Steep surrounding streets |
Montmartre | ★ |
Paris, France
Tips, Tricks, and Logistics
- Wheelchair-Friendly Accommodation: Choose hotels near attractions to minimize transportation needs. Request exact elevator measurements before booking – standard wheelchairs need minimum 80cm doorways.
- Accessible Transportation: For wheelchair users, prioritize Uber Access over metro. If using public transport, RER trains and buses offer better accessibility than regular metro lines.
- Dining: Make restaurant reservations in advance to avoid long waits, especially for popular spots. This guarantees you a table at popular eateries and saves you time. Also, don’t miss out on La Cordonnerie (142 Rue St Denis, 75002 Paris, France) and ABSINTHE CAFÉ (54 R. de Turbigo, 75003 Paris, France) for some bonus dining experiences.
- Language: Learn a few basic French phrases with a tutor from Preply or through the Pimsleur app to enhance your experience and connect better with locals. Even simple greetings and polite expressions can make a significant difference.
- Currency: Exchange currency at your local bank before traveling to get better exchange rates. Use travel-friendly debit and credit cards to avoid foreign transaction fees and ensure you have easy access to funds while abroad.
Trip Soundtrack
Because every adventure needs a soundtrack, each of my trips comes with a theme song. And for this trip's anthem? Well, it's...
Conclusion: Making the Most of Your Paris Layover
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A 3-day layover in Paris is just a taste of what this beautiful city has to offer.
From iconic landmarks and delicious food to hidden gems and cultural experiences, this itinerary covers it all.
From the wide boulevards of Champs-Élysées to the breathtaking views at Trocadéro, Paris can be navigated successfully with some planning. While we used Uber more than the RATP (Parisian metro) due to accessibility considerations, the city was no where near the difficulty that Tokyo presented—which is NOT wheelchair friendly.
Whether you’re traveling with family members who use wheelchairs or simply want to minimize walking distances, this strategic itinerary helps everyone experience Paris comfortably. The City of Lights welcomes all visitors—you just need to know which paths to take.
Enjoy your Parisian adventure and create lasting memories, even during a brief layover. I believe that sometimes the most meaningful travel experiences come from these unexpected interludes between destinations.