Paris is my love, second home, and so much more. This iconic city has shaped my life in many ways, from its beautiful architecture to the smells of baguettes in the morning and rotisserie chickens from Ed l’Epicier (now closed) on the way to school, to the scent of cigarette smoke wafting through the air, the sound of Peugeot 406 diesel engine cars, and brrr brrr brrr whizzing sound of mopeds. There is no other city like Paris.

This city has left an indelible mark on me, from performing MC Solaar’s “Les Temps Changent” in school to listening to Passi’s “Mon Papa a Moi est un Gangster” Bisso Na Bisso’s “Tata Nzambé,” to 113 – “Tonton Du Bled” and “Les Princes de La Ville” (which features the discount store Tati where my mom would shop) on Skyrock (that’s now shuttered). This is the blend of culture and influence that I experienced growing up, and hopefully, you will experience that same warmth in Paris. I hope I can impart some of that experience through some of the tips in this blog.

So, you might be thinking, wait, a 3-day layover in Paris? How do you just spend 3 days in Paris?

Well, hold on. Let me explain.

Obviously, you read the intro–it’s hard to get a crash course on the rich tapestry of culture that permeates the city of light’s cobblestoned streets. However, I wanted to get just a taste. It has been a few years since I visited Paris – and more than 20 years since I visited with my family, especially with my grandmother.

I purposely called Air France to extend the layover going to Delhi. Obviously, there was a fixed wedding date, so I made my departure date flight earlier to build in layover days. Since there was already a layover in the schedule, I asked if they could extend the trip for a few additional days, which turned into a 3-day layover.

As a result, this 3-day layover itinerary was engineered on the fly with some last-minute preparation to help my family hit as many sights as possible in such a short time. This meant revisiting some of our favorite scenic and food spots (that remained) and re-discovering new ones, like the iconic Basilica of Sacré Coeur de Montmartre I used to visit that’s now become famous from the final fight scene in John Wick‘s latest movie. 

This itinerary accommodated a total of six individuals, including my elderly grandmother in a wheelchair.

Pre-Trip

When to Visit

The best time to visit Paris depends on your preferences and budget. If you’re on a budget, I recommend visiting during the shoulder seasons (spring and fall), which usually offer decent weather and fewer crowds. The summer months (June-August) are peak tourist season, with higher prices (round trip from Seattle around $750-$2K, per person) and more people. Our trip was in June, and previously, we’ve visited in the summer or April. Ultimately, it depends on your travel plans and if you plan to visit other cities or European countries, which we would do using the Eurail pass.

However, like most jobs in the USA, you will most likely have time during the summer. For this trip, the primary reason was my brother’s wedding, so I had to coordinate around varying schedules, including shift work, my cousin’s availability, and my grandma’s schedule and mobility. 

If you’re on a more restrictive budget, consider visiting during the winter months (December-February), when prices are lower (round trip from Seattle $496 or $294 round trip from Boston), but be prepared for colder temperatures. 

Our trip was in June, but it came down to several factors–one was when would be the next time we could all go on the trip together? We already had a layover. The weather is nice in June, so that means it’s a lot better to visit the sights, even though it means more crowds.

Transportation

Paris has an excellent public transportation system, including the metro, buses, and RER trains. I recommend purchasing a Paris Visite travel pass, which offers unlimited travel on public transportation within certain zones for a specified number of days. If you plan to use the metro frequently, a Navigo Easy pass might be a more cost-effective option compared to purchasing several single-use tickets.

For those with limited mobility, taxis and ride-sharing services are plentiful. The RATP (Parisian metro system) is not fully equipped for handling wheelchair passengers, so staying near major attractions or planning routes with elevator access is essential. Even as France preps for the 2024 Summer Olympics, the press (AP article) and the following video by FRANCE 24 highlighted challenges even for France’s own paralympic competitors navigating the metro. That’s why we opted for picking a hotel that was close to major attractions and relying more on Uber. This of course meant that we’d eat and frequent more tourist places than normal, but that’s what a trip like this is for. It’s for the company and not necessarily the path unknown–which is my specialty.

This trip was part of a major multi-leg, multi-nation, multi-airline journey. Between the six of us, we’d taken Air France, ANA, and JAL to cover Paris (layover), Delhi, and Tokyo (layover at Haneda) before returning to Chicago and Seattle. Aside from Paris and its mobility issues, the other one which was rather problematic was Tokyo, which severely lacked accessible services for those requiring wheelchair assistance

Accommodation

Choosing the right accommodation based on your group composition or goals for your brief layover trip is crucial in determining how close you are to the main city’s attractions, how many attractions you want to tackle in a given time, and better yet, how do you want to spend your time? Do you want to spend it walking quickly to the site? Spending time and money on an Uber? Spending a longer time on the RATP? 

The RATP (Parisian metro system) is not fully equipped for handling wheelchair passengers, so staying near major attractions was essential. It’s for this reason and for this trip, we stayed close to the Arc de Triomphe, a major attraction with main boulevards pointing in multiple directions, and used it as our base. That way, even if we couldn’t be super adventurous with our attraction-hitting-agenda, we could still be within feet from the Champs-Elysees and numerous iconic landmarks. 

Here are some recommendations based on hotels I was considering based on different budgets and preferences. I’ve also included the two hotels we ultimately picked. Since I transferred most of my Amex points for this trip and previous ones in the year, it wasn’t economical to select from the luxury category. If you have an accumulation of points and take advantage of the deals Amex sometimes runs, which is 2 days get one day free, plus the room upgrade, and the on-premise credit, you can really make magic happen.

• Luxury: Four Seasons Hotel George V and Hôtel Plaza Athénée–both part of Amex Fine Hotel & Resort, The Hotel Royal Monceau (where Rihanna has stayed). If you’re proposing or on a layover to your honeymoon and don’t want to skimp out, then see La Reserve Paris. 
• Mid-Range: Paris Marriott Champs Elysees Hotel, Le Méridien Etoile, Sonder’s ATALA (we stayed here, 10 min walk to Arc of Triumph) and, Hôtel Princesse Caroline (we stayed here, close to Arc of Triumph. This hotel is comfortable but also features a small elevator that might pose challenges for those with mobility issues.)
• Music: If you want more insight into French music, especially French rap, check out Skyrock.fm, and for the classics, the double-CD compilation DJ Abdel & DJ Djel – Collectif Rap 2 – De Paris À Marseille. 
• Budget: Hotel Le Relais Du Marais (near the barber shop), Hotel F1 (heavily discounted rates but with shared bathroom facilities and usually in suburbs of Paris). 

Note: I always try to factor Sonder locations into my stay (so far it’s been a total of four locations) because they allow me to work remotely with ease and have a lot of the American-style amenities that you can come to expect but may not realize you’re used to when you travel. Additionally, when I look for hotels specifically, I try to stay at American establishments to fully utilize my American Express for extra rewards, too. For those with limited mobility or traveling with someone in a wheelchair, the Sonder ATALA and Hôtel Princesse Caroline are located near major attractions but have small elevators that may not be suitable for wheelchair access.

Language

While many Parisians speak English, putting in the effort to learn a few basic French phrases goes a long way when visiting a different country and culture. 

Of course, it should be noted that most French people speak English. As an American who was in the French education system, we have to learn English (mandatory) in school from Ecole Elementaire to Lycee, including other languages. I’ve heard instances where there’s French people who are not nice, but I have seen a fair amount of Americans expecting people to just speak the language, especially if they are visiting and spending dollars. 

As you can tell, I’m with the camp that doesn’t agree with this. If they see you trying to speak the language, I guarantee they will assist or switch to speaking English. If not, then email me to tell me otherwise. I recommend using YouTube crash course videos and language tutoring services like Preply to learn the basics of the language. I use both of these whenever I travel.

Currency Exchange

The currency in France is the euro (€). I recommend exchanging U.S. dollars into the currency of your travel destination at your local bank before your trip versus withdrawing cash from an ATM upon arrival. You are more likely to get a better exchange rate. 

For travel the primary account I used for withdrawal is a debit card linked to my Fidelity® Cash Management Account, which is pretty effortless when using in all the countries I’ve traveled. The equivalent to this account would be the Charles Schwab Investor Account. These are different from other checking accounts at other banks which will impose a fee upon withdrawal (a charge 1% on international transactions) or deny a withdrawal completely. This is usually seen in smaller banks or credit unions (which I noticed with my brother’s bank).

However, credit cards are widely accepted in most establishments. I was able to use American Express in many places, but I still defaulted to my Capital One SavorONE Mastercard–both of which do not charge a foreign transaction fee. 

So make sure you are carrying the right debit and credit cards that you can use internationally for emergencies and general purchase and ones that will get you rewards at the same time.

Gear Used

Pre-Flight

For this trip, I used AwardHacker.com to see how and where I could best use my American Express Membership Rewards (MR) rewards for a one-way ticket to go from Seattle, Washington, USA to Delhi, India (our final destination). The return-trip would be booked separately, since I wanted to purposely fly ANA. (Note: Award Hacker is a search tool and doesn’t allow you to book tickets directly with an airline. Also, it may not be fully updated. Therefore, use it solely for planning which airline to use for points but double check the true cost and mileage amount with the airline directly).

Additional Fees:

• $63.80 / per person  x 5X Amex Platinum Points =  320 (640)
• SEA → Paris $193.40 x 5X Amex Platinum Points = 965
• CDG → Delhi $193.40 x 5X Amex Platinum Points = 965

A quick search revealed that Air France was the cheapest airline to Delhi based on AmEx MR points, with a substantial layover in Paris. I thought this was a great deal and went for it. You will have to create a FlyingBlue account and then transfer the MR points from Amex to Air France, which can take 2 days or more. Be prepared for this, especially as prices and award redemption fluctuate. (On a side note: Their PIN code for logging into the website process is horrible. SMS sometimes work and email can take over 5-minutes. It’s just enough for me not to use their website again.)

I would have gone with Delta, but they were more expensive and they wouldn’t have necessarily stopped in Paris (a stop I was purposely trying to force). Plus, I was nostalgic from flying Air France as a kid and wanted to relive that experience. The other benefit of flying a national airline is that you get to experience the culture through food and in-flight entertainment. On this flight I watched Tout le Monde Aime Jeanne (Everybody Loves Jeanne)—a creative comedy, where the protagonist goes to Lisbon after her mother’s death to put her apartment up for sale and sell her goods—a common trope.

It’s important to note that even though your ticket may say “$0,” there will be fees associated with using rewards points. It’s a sort of reward tax, which in the case of Air France was a couple of hundred dollars ($514.40 for two people to Delhi, which translates to $257.20 per person). So be prepared if you think that flight is 100% free and you haven’t anticipated using that paycheck that’s about to arrive in your checking account.

Day 1

Morning:

• 8:40 AM: Arrive at Charles de Gaulle Airport

• 9:30 AM: Take Uber to the Hotel. The hotel might let you check in early or just let you store the bags until it’s time to fully check-in.
• 10:30 AM: Breakfast at a Chocolatine Pastry Cyril Lignac – Chaillot, 2 Rue de Chaillot, 75116 Paris, France near the Arc de Triomphe.
• 11:30 AM: Visit the Arc de Triomphe and the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. (Closest Metro: Charles de Gaulle – Étoile)

Afternoon:

• 12:30 PM: Walk along the Champs-Élysées. Consider a stop at Sephora Paris for some beauty shopping. This is one of my favorite spots, where I remember the cologne being so expensive that the cheapest bottle was a bottle of Comme des Garçons. Growing up, we would seldomly take the Metro and walk with my Mom from La Défense along the Champs-Élysées to Sephora and back. (Closest Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt)

• 1:30 PM: Stop by Franprix at 33 Rue Marbeuf, 75008 Paris, France to grab water and other items for the trip.
• 2:00 PM: Lunch at Chez Janou, a charming bistro known for its Provençal cuisine and crazy Pastis menu. (Closest Metro: Chemin Vert).

I would recommend you get a reservation if you plan on visiting this restaurant. However, you can still sit for dinner if you don’t have a reservation. We simply sat at the bar until dinner service. You can sit and order a few items while you wait or just add to your tab. I requested the bartender to just randomly sample me Pastis, which is an anise aperitif that’s popular in France. It has a rather strong taste and probably fits in the category of Jagermeister or Absinthe. It’s an acquired taste for sure. We did this until seating opened up and a reservation did not show up and we were able to get a seat. Don’t worry, you will see others do the same. If you arrive here and people have not arrived then they can seat you.

The food was delicious and they have a rather good menu of options for food from pot au feu, and French onion soup. If you’re claustrophobic do note that these tables are pretty close to each other. We were actually paired to this older French couple who were pretty chatty and I asked them for some recommendations, especially since I was visiting with family. They suggested Chez Suzette and La Maison de la Truffe Madeleine (which we didn’t have time to add to our super packed schedule).

• 3:30 PM – 5:00 PM: Enjoy crepes with Grand Marnier at Chez Suzette Creperie Paris.

Evening:

• 5:30 PM – 6:30 PM: For a haircut, visit West Side Barber. Price: $50 for a haircut. This place was super chill. We ended up exchanging rap songs. I showed him some from Tee Grizzley and Chief Keef and he showed me a few that I hadn’t heard of.
• 7:30 PM – 9:00 PM: Dinner at Monte-Carlo, 9 Av. de Wagram, 75017 Paris, France. This is if you pick Hôtel Princesse Caroline, where some of us stayed.
• 9:30 PM – 10:00 PM: Visit Alter Smoke for CBD products, 2 Rue Washington, 75008 Paris, France, next to Sonder.

Day 2

Morning:

• 8:00 AM – 9:00 AM: Breakfast at 13 Au Jardin, 5 Rue de Médicis. (Closest Metro: Luxembourg)

• 9:30 AM – 11:00 AM: Visit Luxembourg Palace, take a stroll through the gardens, and watch the vintage toy boats in the Luxembourg Gardens. (You can also switch the order and visit the Luxembourg gardens and then go to 13 Au Jardin.)

 

Afternoon:

• 11:30 AM – 1:30 PM: Explore Le Louvre (make sure to book tickets in advance). (Closest Metro: Palais Royal – Musée du Louvre). If the lines are too long based on when you plan your trip, then you can still peer into the glass and look down below inside the mini-Pyramid entrance.

• 2:00 PM – 3:00 PM: Visit Notre Dame de Paris and walk along the Seine. (Closest Métro: Cité)
• 3:00 PM – 4:00 PM: Stroll through the Jardin des Tuileries and walk to Place de la Concorde. (Closest Metro: Concorde)

Evening:

• 4:30 PM – 6:00 PM: Discover Quartier Latin and Shakespeare and Company bookstore at 37 Rue de la Bûcherie, 75005 Paris, France. (Closest Metro: Saint-Michel) Take a picture by the fountain in front of the bookstore. While this is a bookstore in France, a lot of the books are in English. So make sure to grab one as a souvenir. I randomly snatched up a book that I would later find out was on horseback riding called Kick the Latch by Kathryn Scanlan. A good read. 

• 18:30 – 20:00:Then walk to Rue de la Hachette, which is known for its many Greek fast-food restaurants, usually serving gyros, fries, and a Coke. Pick a restaurant to get some gyros (they generally all offer the same type and quality of food). Afterwards, hop over to Amorino, an ice cream shop at 16 Rue de la Huchette, 75005 Paris, France. 
• 20:30 – 22:00: Walk back to Quai Saint-Michel and head to Pont Saint-Michel (Pont Saint-Michel, 75006 Paris, France). Continue walking by foot or taxi (if needed for wheelchair accessibility) to Place du Trocadéro, Pl. du Trocadéro et du 11 Novembre, 75016 Paris, France. This is where John Wick and the Marquis negotiate the rules of their duel in a meeting moderated by the High Table’s Harbinger in the John Wick: Chapter 4. (Note: depending on your layover or when you arrive, consider the aesthetics of when, how, and why you want to take a picture of Trocadero square and the Eiffel Tower, since tourists can crowd your photo).

Day 3

Morning:

• 06:00 – 8:00:Early visit to Montmartre. Replicate the John Wick scene by walking up the 300 steps up to the Sacré-Cœur. Take the Funicular back down. For car lovers, this is also the last stop in Claude Lelouch’s iconic short film, C’était un Rendez-vous.

I recommend arriving in the morning, since it’s the best time to avoid crowds and get a great view of the city. (Closest Metro: Abbesses or Anvers). The steps are a definite pain to walk up., but there’s a funicular that can ease that burden, if necessary. But I would walk into the Sacre Coeur when the doors opened, sit down, and take a moment to enjoy the architecture. When we were there I was actually approached by a nun, where we walked for a good many minutes about life and she basically told me just to focus on what I can control in front of me and not focus on what I can’t control. And she said I don’t know if you’re religious or not but here are some prayer beads and to wish my brother and his wife a good wedding.

Also, there’s this where the Lelouch ends up at Montmartre Sacre Coeur in the original video here at 8.10min, gave me inspiration for this shot here. And check out the video from Drive that does a deeper dive here.

• 8:00 – 9:00: From the funicular walk, 7 minutes to the Place Émile Goudeau drinking fountain near Picasso’s first studio, then a 4 minute walk to the Wall of Love, and finally an 8-minute walk to the Moulin Rouge windmill. (Closest Metro: Blanche). If you’re hungry or want coffee, there’s a Five Guys and Starbucks nearby, but we preferred a quaint cafe on the way back to the hotel.
• 9:00 – 10:00: Enjoy a coffee break at Cafe Pera on 41 Rue Ballu, on your way back to the city center. (Closest Metro: Place de Clichy). Try their croissants and stop for a quick coffee. (Note: this is not a full fledged lunch spot)

Late Morning:

• 10:30 – 12:00: Explore the Arche de La Défense and visit FNAC in the Westfield CNIT. or the stores in Westfield Les 4 Temps (Closest Metro: La Défense). This is my old stomping ground that is now a major financial district with many shops. The biggest shops worth checking out would be FNAC which is the equivalent to Best Buy and Target combined. This is a good area if you want to pick up gifts or household items. I would come here to buy cahier’s (French notebooks) and other items needed for school.

• 12:00 – 12:30: Missing contacts? If you need contacts on the run, check out Art Optic Courbevoie, 36 Rue de Bezons, 92400 Courbevoie, France. Price: $80.90. I often end up needing last minute contacts (which happened in Spain, too), and the optometrist here was very helpful, hooking me up with a 90-day supply of a French brand of dailies—Ophtalmic HR 1 Day—that worked really well. I wish I could find this brand in the states but I haven’t so far.

Afternoon:

• 2:30 PM – 4:00 PM: Visit Porte De Clignancourt and the Paris Flea Market, a 7 minute walk from the metro. Also, check out Marché Malik nearby (Closest Metro: Porte de Clignancourt). This is a big shopping destination that features major discount stores. I do think the area is still worth exploring if it fits in your schedule. If not, skip it.

• 4:30 PM – 6:00 PM: Explore Centre Pompidou and the adjacent, yet eccentrically colorful Stravinksy Fountain. (Closest Metro: Rambuteau). If pressed for time, just take a picture in front of either structure.

Evening:

• 6:30 PM – 8:00 PM: Relax at Le Galliera for late coffee at 15 Avenue Pierre 1er de Serbie, Paris, 75016.
• 8:30 PM – 10:00 PM: Visit Café George V, 120 Avenue des Champs-Élysées, Paris, 75008. I’ve never gone to this cafe before in the many, many times I’ve walked this boulevard. However, since my family was all here, this was more of a good place to just sit down, eat, have coffee and French beer, and people-watch. But do be aware, this is strictly a tourist place and not an actual restaurant that you would want for food. So expect high prices and mediocre food. My grandma gave that shake of her head I grew used to–a stare and then wide eyes and then a fast head moving side to side like “nah.” I’m like, “What grandma?” And she’s like, “Is this what they call a steak?” Basically because it didn’t taste like a steak to her. But I told her that this was just a touristy place and it was easy for all of us to get to and eat at, and at least we could people-watch and be just steps from the Arc de Triomphe! She nodded.
• 20:30 – 21:00: If you’re just craving a quick French beer, stop by Les Deux Magots, 6 Pl. Saint-Germain des Prés, 75006 Paris, France.

Where to catch a fade?

Have you ever seen this haircut prank video on YouTube by TopNotch Idiots?? Ok ok, nothing like that, but if you want to get a clean fade, see westbarber.officiel. This is one I would recommend, and it’s also centrally located near the Metro Stations – Parmentier, Republique, Filles du Calvaire.

Finding a place to get a fade is always the hardest part about travel. You can try packing your essentials like I do here. But do know that if you have the U.S. Andis T-Outliner and Andis Master clipper, the U.S. plug won’t work without a step-down converter. Same for if your girlfriend comes with her hair straightener.

Therefore it’s better to buy an Andis clipper with an EU plug, which is this type here.

At this barber, you can schedule online, but you can also walk there. However, you have to know that you will have to wait for a while. But they will hook you up. I got hooked up with a clean fade that I desperately needed that fresh haircut before heading to Delhi.

Not only that, but they have a TV in the back where they play mostly French rap videos. We talked about rap and they put me on some new French rap tracks and I put them on U.S. tracks from Chief Keef, Gunna, and Tee Grizzley.

Finding a place to get a fade is always the hardest part about travel. You can try packing your essentials like I do here. But do know that if you have the U.S. Andis T-Outliner and Andis Master clipper, the U.S. plug won’t work without a step-down converter. Same for if your girlfriend comes with her hair straightener.

Therefore it’s better to buy an Andis clipper with an EU plug, which is this type here.

Head to Airport to Get Ready for the Flight to Delhi

During our trip, we used Uber for transportation between our accommodations and the airport. And now it’s time to take Uber to Airport Charles to Gaulle for the Air France Flight to Delhi–watching La Haine.

Here’s some fare breakdowns: 

• • Going from CDG to Hôtel Princesse Caroline: This vehicle had a special area for the wheelchair to fit and had seating where people faced each other in a weird British LEVC TX eCity
    • Total: €102.60
    • Distance: 32.70 kilometers
    • Time: 47 min
  • Going from Sonder’s ATALA to CDG Airport
    • Total: €47.59
    • Distance: 31.08 kilometers 
    • Time: 32 min

Paris, France

Tips, Tricks, and Logistics

• Accommodation: Choose a hotel close to major attractions, especially if traveling with someone with limited mobility. This ensures easy access to key sites and minimizes transportation hassles.
• Transportation: Utilize the Paris Visite travel pass or Navigo Easy pass for unlimited public transportation travel. These passes offer convenience and can be cost-effective for frequent travelers.
• Microbrewery: Check out Brasserie Parisis (https://brasserie-parisis.com), a local brewery with Parisian craft brews.
• Dining: Make restaurant reservations in advance to avoid long waits, especially for popular spots. This guarantees you a table at popular eateries and saves you time. Also, don’t miss out on La Cordonnerie (142 Rue St Denis, 75002 Paris, France) and ABSINTHE CAFÉ (54 R. de Turbigo, 75003 Paris, France) for some bonus dining experiences.
• Language: Learn a few basic French phrases with a tutor from Preply or through the Pimsleur app to enhance your experience and connect better with locals. Even simple greetings and polite expressions can make a significant difference.
• Currency: Exchange currency at your local bank before traveling to get better exchange rates. Use travel-friendly debit and credit cards to avoid foreign transaction fees and ensure you have easy access to funds while abroad.

Trip Soundtrack

Because every adventure needs a soundtrack, each of my trips comes with a theme song. And for this trip's anthem? Well, it's...

Suprême NTM - La Benz

Conclusion

A 3-day layover in Paris is just a taste of what this beautiful city has to offer. From iconic landmarks and delicious food to hidden gems and cultural experiences, this itinerary covers it all. Paris may leave you wanting more, but even a short visit can create lasting memories. Enjoy your adventure and make the most of every moment in the City of Lights.