Estoril, Portugal, is a hidden gem just off the beaten path along the Portuguese Riviera, offering a unique blend of scenic beauty, luxurious experiences, and a touch of James Bond allure. 

Unlike the bustling streets of Lisbon, I found Estoril to be a much more quiet escape with its clean beaches, historic sites, and of course the iconic Hotel Palácio Estoril, featured in the James Bond movie “On Her Majesty’s Secret Service.” 

Estoril is located about 25 kilometers (15.5 miles) from Lisbon, which made it a convenient 30-minute drive by Uber. Normally, I’d hesitate about taking such a long car ride, but Ubers are very cheap here compared to the U.S.

But forget the boring stuff, let’s dive into on my 3-day itinerary that made me feel like the world’s most famous spy. I mean, I might even write a spy novel after this.

Check-In

Hotel Palácio Estoril

My adventure in Estoril began at the luxurious Hotel Palácio Estoril, a legendary hotel with a rich history linked to the James Bond franchise and World War II espionage. This hotel was a significant spot for the Allies during the war, while the nearby Hotel do Parque was used by the Axis. Additionally, the Palácio Estoril served as a gathering place for spies and royalty from Spain, Italy, and Bulgaria, making it historically significant. 

When you arrive, make sure to look out for the charming head concierge, José Diogo, who has been working here for over 50 years.

It took me a few days to get a hold of him, even though I saw him during check-in. He was either at the hotel when I was sightseeing, or I was at the hotel when he was not scheduled. Be sure to track him down!

José was eager to share stories of the hotel’s cinematic and historic past, including his own appearance in the James Bond film, “On Her Majesty’s Secret Service” as the bellboy (in his younger days) who handed James Bond (played by George Lazenby) his room key. 

José asked what room we were staying in, and we casually mentioned “Room 516.” It wasn’t until he told us that this was the same room number featured in the movie (now actually room 520) where he hands James Bond the key that we realized the significance. So, if you’re lucky, you might get to stay in room 516 – or, you could always ask the concierge to be housed in the iconic James Bond room.

Additionally, I wouldn’t miss the opportunity to capture a photo with José in front of the hotel, which remains remarkably unchanged since its silver screen debut.

The only thing I could think of during my entire stay here was the nostalgic sound of the James Bond soundtrack that reminds me of the N64 GoldenEye007 video game, especially the track from “On Her Majesty’s Secret Service,” titled “This Never Happened To The Other Fella.”

If you are a true James Bond fan, then scroll to the bottom where I have additional details.

Gear Used

Essential gear that kept me going on my travels (disclaimer: contains affiliate links).

Day 1

Morning: Arrival and Settling In

• Check into the Hotel Palácio Estoril and take some time to explore the hotel. Enjoy a tasty breakfast at the hotel’s restaurant. You can tell I didn’t hold back on my second plate.

Afternoon: Beach Time

• Head to Praia do Tamariz, a beautiful beach that’s not too far from the hotel. Relax on the sandy shores, swim in the clear waters, and be sure to enjoy its peaceful surroundings. I made it a point to sit here for a few moments to soak in the sun, a component that’s sorely lacking in the Pacific Northwest.

Evening: Dinner at Cantina Clandestina

• For dinner, we visited Cantina Clandestina in nearby Cascais. This restaurant offers delicious local cuisine in a cozy, setting that was perfect for unwinding after a day of travel.

Day 2

Morning: Explore Cascais

• Grab another hearty breakfast at the hotel. Then, take an Uber to back to Cascais, except this time it will be in the daytime!
• We visited Mercado da Vila, which was recommended by José and is open from 7 AM to 1 PM. It’s a great place to explore a variety of local goods. I did find some vendors on this side of town who weren’t overly welcoming to foreigners, but then again, I did overhear several Americans discussing buying property in the area. I’m not saying the two are linked, but it wasn’t quite as inviting as Estoril. The market is only a short 10-minute Uber ride from Estoril and should cost around 5-7 Euros.

Afternoon: Beach Hopping

• I spent my afternoon beach hopping between Praia do Pescoço do Cavalo and other nearby beaches. All the beaches on Estoril’s coast are actually walkable using the walkway, so no matter which one you choose, you’re in for a peaceful time.

Evening: Casino Night

• End your day with a visit to Casino Estoril, the largest casino in Europe. Try your luck at the gaming tables and immerse yourself in the glamorous atmosphere reminiscent of a classic Bond film. I thought about playing my hand in roulette, but then I backed out last minute. 

Day 3

Morning: Quick Trip to Lisbon

• If you’re in Estoril for a wedding (like I was) or a short stay, use this day to take a quick trip to Lisbon. The city is just a short train ride away, and there’s a convenient train station near the hotel. Note: If you want to plan a wedding on the Portuguese coast, there’s many places to book a wedding venue either this hotel or at Forte da Cruz.

Afternoon: Return and Relax

• Return to Estoril in the afternoon and take some time to relax at the hotel or explore any remaining spots on your list. I spent the time just relaxing in the hotel room and drinking some Vinho Verde that I had picked up in Porto.
• Alternatively, I suggest diving into Estoril’s history at the Museu do Mar, a maritime museum housed in a 17th-century fort. Here you can learn about Portugal’s seafaring traditions, explore exhibits on naval history, and admire the impressive collection of model ships.

Alternate Plan: Day trip to Sintra

While Estoril’s Bond connection is undeniably intriguing, it’s not the sole allure of this charming town. Many visitors often overlook the opportunity to explore nearby Sintra, a UNESCO World Heritage site renowned for its fairytale castles and lush gardens. A day trip to Sintra is a popular choice and easily doable, even if you’re staying in Estoril.

You can easily catch a cab from your hotel to Sintra (which several members of our wedding party did), but this can be a bit pricey. A more budget-friendly option is to take a train from Estoril station to Sintra, which offers a scenic journey through the picturesque Portuguese landscape. The train journey takes approximately 40 minutes, and tickets are readily available at the station. Upon arrival in Sintra, you can explore the town’s many attractions on foot or by utilizing the local bus network, which provides convenient access to various points of interest.

• Morning: Embark on a day trip to Sintra. Take the train from Estoril station to Sintra, and upon arrival, you can either walk or take a local bus to the town center.
• Afternoon: Marvel at the Pena Palace, a vibrant architectural masterpiece perched atop a hill, offering panoramic views of the surrounding landscape. Explore its colorful rooms, intricate details, and sprawling gardens.
• Evening: Immerse yourself in the enchanting gardens of Quinta da Regaleira, a mystical estate filled with hidden grottoes, ornate fountains, and enigmatic symbols. Lose yourself in its labyrinthine pathways and discover its secrets.

More James Bond Stuff…Continued

For true James Bond fans, José Diogo will be happy to issue a “James Bond Certificate” recognizing the hotel’s significance, where in 1941, Ian Fleming stayed at Hotel Palácio Estoril, drawing inspiration for “Casino Royale.”

 

During World War II, the hotel was a hotspot for espionage, with spies from both the Axis and Allies knowing that the hotels were bugged.

Apparently, Fleming visited the casino to keep tabs on the famous double agent Dušan “Duško” Popov using MI6 funds.

The hotel would then go on to host the filming of “On Her Majesty’s Secret Service” in 1968, where James Bond (George Lazenby) arrived in an Aston Martin DBS and parked next to a Mercury Cougar XR7.

On a side note, If you really read the story of Popov, he had the lifestyle of a playboy, which reminded of another spy in this book–based on real events–Agent Zigzag: A True Story of Nazi Espionage, Love, and Betrayal.

I also visited Bar Estoril, nicknamed the “Spy Bar,” where I of course got the “007 Martini”—shaken, not stirred.

The bar maintains a gentlemanly, old-timey ambiance, perfect for a drink that pretty much makes you tipsy ASAP. If you have additional time, I suggest checking out the Estoril Golf Course, less than five minutes from the hotel, where Bond was seen taking his golf clubs.

Plus, you will see plenty of people with their golf accessories and attire during breakfast to make you wish you were practicing your stroke.

If you want to get extra nitty gritty information on the hotels significance to the James Bond franchise, ask José for a packet called the “OHMSS 50” packet. I found it a helpful resource that details the hotel’s history, which I used extensively for this blog post. The packet even includes a recap of a fan-filled event in May 2019 that commemorated the hotel’s connection to the movies.

Estoril & Cascais

Tips, Tricks, and Logistics

1. Beach Timing: Visit the beaches early in the morning or late afternoon to avoid crowds and enjoy a peaceful experience.
2. Local Cuisine: Don’t miss trying local seafood dishes at restaurants in Cascais and Estoril. 
3. Market Visits: Check out local markets like Mercado da Vila for fresh produce, local crafts, and an authentic taste of Portuguese culture.
4. Casino Dress Code: The Casino Estoril has a smart-casual dress code. Dress appropriately to fully enjoy your night out.
5. James Bond Experience: Read Casino Royale by Ian Fleming before your trip for a deeper connection to the Bond-themed hotel.

Trip Soundtrack

Because every adventure needs a soundtrack, each of my trips comes with a theme song. And for this trip's anthem? Well, it's...

On Her Majesty's Secret Service (From “On Her Majesty’s Secret Service” Soundtrack)

Conclusion

In short, Estoril is the perfect mix of luxury, history, and that unmistakable 007 vibe – perfect for a getaway straight out of a Bond film. I mean can’t you just hear the 007 theme music playing in the background with the waves crashing on that beach/jetty in the photo above? Dun dun dun dun dun….DIN DUN!

For me, staying at the iconic Hotel Palácio Estoril and exploring the beautiful beaches and vibrant markets made every moment in Estoril feel like a scene from a 007 movie.

Whether you’re a die-hard Bond fan (I grew up watching James Bond Marathons on TBS with my Dad) or just looking for a memorable travel experience, Estoril promises an adventure filled with elegance and excitement.

So pack your bags, channel your inner James Bond, and get ready for an unforgettable journey in Estoril, Portugal. I might just see you there!